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Best Hangboards for Training

Best Hangboards for Training

Comparing climbing hangboard options for building finger strength. The top 5 fingers boards for training compared in an easy to use format.

Climb On Squamish, selects products based on the expertise of our team. We comprise of climbers, athletes, guides, skiers and mountain rescue. We then take the selected products and compare them in this independent review to help consumers make educated purchases! We are not paid for these reviews, if we don't like a product feature, we are free to say so, if we love a feature we'll probably be adding it to our gear wall!

Looking to improve your finger strength? Hangboards have become a fixture at every gym across the world. The original hangboards were primitive but effective and led to a jump in climbing grades. The picture above is the legendary Wolfgang Gullich training in Camp 4, Yosemite. Wolfgang was credited with the development of many training techniques, including the campus board and was the first to break into the mysterious 9a grade. (Ben Moon supporters would bring up "Hubble" at this point, but let's save that for another day) The compact sister tool to the campus board (explosive/contact strength) is the hangboard (finger strength). This simple tool can be mounted at home to allow easy access to training when you life doesn't have enough time. Stop making excuses and start hanging.

Hangboard Comparison

  Tension Simple Board 5.5in: Jug, 20mm, and 15mm Digit Climbing Yubi Hangboard Awesome Woodys Cliff Board Micro Metolius Wood Grips Deluxe II Beastmaker Hangboard 1000 Series Tension Climbing Grindstone Mk2 Hangboard
  Beastmaker 1000

Price (↑)

$70.95 $99.95 $109.00 $139.95 $169.95 $219.95

Staff Pick ()

So simple Take it to the crag and warm up. Light enough to go anywhere So many options Overall pick Amazing quality.

Pros

Cheap, very compact, expandable with 2nd set, adjustable set up Hang it up at home, in your van or at the crag, cheap, multiple edge sizes 400 grams, compact, well made, portable and hangs anywhere, adjustable hanging angle Multiple depths in edges and pockets, nice warm up jugs, nice finishing Universally used, nice finishing texture, good selection of pocket, edges and slopers Amazing texture, multiple edges sizes, depths marked and holds your phone

Cons

Limited options, no pockets Not as stable vs wall mounted Narrow, limited options Larger Size, undefined edge depths Expensive, no pinch training option, three finger pockets located too close together Pricey, no pockets

Summary

A great addition to expand your home set up that takes very little wall space A versatile tool that goes where you go at a reasonable price. Perfect for warming up below your project Perfect for taking overseas, up to a crag or hang in your van. Nicely designed with options on both sides When you want all the sizes and have space to mount it at home A compact top quality fingerboard best for 5.11 and 5.13 climbers who want a skin friendly board  The Ferrari of hangboards, a dedicated hangboard for those following a dedicated training program

Features

Poplar wood, Jug, 20mm and 15mm Birch wood, 8 mm,10 mm,14 mm,18 mm,
22 mm,27 mm,28 mm, 35 mm (flat)
Wood, 30mm, 18mm, 15mm edges plus pockets and jugs Wood, Multiple edges and pockets Wood, Half pad, one pad and two pad pockets, training App Poplar Wood, Multiple edges

Specs/Materials

Dimensions: (cm) 14 x 15.25 x 6.35  Dimensions: (cm) 45 x 6 (Diameter) Dimensions: (cm) 35 x 9 x 4.5 Dimensions: (cm) 61 x 21.6 x 5.5 Dimensions: (cm)  58cm x 15 x 5.8 Dimensions: (cm) 58.4 x 17.8 x 7.6

Selecting a Hangboard 

Before selecting a hangboard ask a few key questions. Where are you going to mount it and how? What are you looking to achieve with it and what training program are you following? What level do you climb at? and What is your budget? This will help you determine the size of the board you can squeeze into your home, the amount you are prepared to spend, and the edges or pocket or jugs you need for your training program. Often hangboards will need to be mounted onto a piece of wood that is larger than the hangboard and then the wood is screwed into the studs in your wall. Without having multiple screws into the studs you are likely to rip it right out of the wall.

One of the key features of any hangboard is the texture and comfort of the edges. If the edges are painful and grab the skin you are likely to tear your skin and this will stop your training or at very least make things uncomfortable. Having smooth comfortable pockets and edges will keep you coming back and sticking to your training program, especially once you start adding additional weight. We mainly stock wood hangboards as the smoother wood is friendlier on the skin but the downside is lower friction compared to plastic boards

The spacing of the edges you are training on should be a comfortable distance apart, this is determined by your shoulder width, which edges you use and where they are located on the board. Make sure you select a board that suits your needs. If the pockets or edges are not lined up, it can feel tweaky and possibly lead to injury.

Whatever hangboard you pick the most important factor in building finger strength and reaching your climbing goal is hard work! Put the hangboard somewhere you want to hangout, add music, mount your phone, set out goals, follow a training program and chart your progress. You can view all the products we have selected for you in the training section of our website.

Happy training from the Climb On team.

Free shipping in Canada for orders above $150.
Flat rate of $20 shipping to the States.
Special Order for Work at Heights. Contact Us!
Free contactless curbside pickup.